{"refrec":{"BRefID":123040,"RR":"<b>Thornton, E.B.; Guza, R.T.</b> (1983). Transformation of wave height distribution. <i>J. Geophys. Res. 88(C10)</i>: 5925-5938. <a href=\"https://dx.doi.org/10.1029/JC088iC10p05925\" target=\"_blank\">https://dx.doi.org/10.1029/JC088iC10p05925</a>","BEntID":117070,"PublicFlag":1,"CheckedFlag":0,"wosflag":1,"vabbflag":1,"RefStringPartII":". <i>J. Geophys. Res. 88(C10)</i>: 5925-5938. <a href=\"https://dx.doi.org/10.1029/JC088iC10p05925\" target=\"_blank\">https://dx.doi.org/10.1029/JC088iC10p05925</a>","DocTypID":8,"DocType":"Journal article","MarineFlag":1,"FreshFlag":0,"BrackishFlag":0,"TerrestrialFlag":0,"Authorstring":"Thornton, E.B.; Guza, R.T.","OrigTitleTranslFlag":0,"Authorstringtrunc":"Thornton, E.B.; Guza, R.T.","Englishabstract":"The <span class=a>transformation</span> <span class=a>of</span> random <span class=a>wave</span> <span class=a>heights</span> during shoaling, including <span class=a>waves</span> breaking in the surf zone, was measured with an extensive array <span class=a>of</span> instruments in the field. The initially Rayleigh <span class=a>height</span> <span class=a>distributions</span> in 10-m depth were observed to be modified by shoaling and breaking into new <span class=a>distributions</span> which are again nearly Rayleigh but with some energy loss. Using locally measured H<sub>rms</sub>, the Rayleigh <span class=a>distribution</span> describes the measured central moments <span class=a>of</span> H<sub>1</sub><sub>/</sub><sub>3</sub> and H<sub>1</sub><sub>/</sub><sub>1</sub><sub>0</sub> with average errors <span class=a>of</span> -0.2% and -1.8%, respectively. The Rayleigh <span class=a>distribution</span> is used to describe the random nature <span class=a>of</span> <span class=a>wave</span> <span class=a>heights</span> in a single-parameter <span class=a>transformation</span> model based on energy flux balance. The energy losses associated with <span class=a>wave</span> breaking are parameterized using observed breaking <span class=a>wave</span> <span class=a>distributions</span> coupled with a periodic bore dissipation model. Using incident <span class=a>waves</span> measured in 10-m depth as input conditions, the model predicts H<sub>rms</sub> at shoreward locations within a rms error <span class=a>of</span> +/-9%. The single free parameter <span class=a>of</span> the model, a constant B representing the fraction <span class=a>of</span> foam on the face <span class=a>of</span> a <span class=a>wave</span>, was chosen to best fit the data. The resulting large value <span class=a>of</span> B implies that the simple periodic bore dissipation function substantially underestimates the actual dissipation.","AbstractOtherLang":null,"BibLvlCode":"AS","StandardTitle":"Transformation of wave height distribution","OrigTitleLangCode":"en","OrigTitleLangCodeExtended":"eng","OrigTitleLangID":15,"DateLastModified":{"date":"2026-05-31 01:31:11.067495","timezone_type":1,"timezone":"+02:00"},"UserAccessRight":null,"UserAccID":null,"AuthorKeywords":null,"OtherDescriptors":null,"Notes":null,"AnaPub":1983,"MonPub":null,"DateUpdate":"2022-02-15","DateCreate":"2008-06-16","SecASFANote":null,"ConfID":null,"PeerRev":1,"VlizCoreFlag":1,"WoScode":"WOS:A1983QZ67700001","VABBcode":null,"OpenAcc":0,"DOI":"10.1029/JC088iC10p05925"},"refs":null,"anarec":{"AnaID":123040,"PubliDate":1983,"Pagination":"5925-5938","XtraPublOfAnaID":null,"ISBN":null,"Volume":"88","Issue":"C10","BRefMon":null,"BRefMonRR":null,"BRefXtra":null,"BRefXtraRR":null,"SerBRefID":90908,"SerRR":"Journal of Geophysical Research. American Geophysical Union: Richmond.  ISSN 0148-0227; e-ISSN 2156-2202","StandardTitleSer":"Journal of Geophysical Research","ISSN":"0148-0227","AbbrevSer":"J. Geophys. Res.","StandardTitleMon":null,"StartPage":5925,"Pages":14,"ToPubliDate":null,"BRefBibLvlCode":"S","SerNotes":"1896-1977"},"monrec":null,"serrec":null,"relations":null,"relationsRev":null,"addrec":null,"othpubs":null,"ownerships":null,"authors":[{"AutName":"Thornton","Firstname":"Edward B.","Initials":"E.B.","Affiliation":null,"Discriminator":null,"CorporateFlag":0,"BEntID":117070,"AutID":63341,"OrderNr":1,"DegrID":null,"EditorFlag":0,"CorrespFlag":0,"IllustratorFlag":0,"ReviserFlag":0,"TranslatorFlag":0,"InsAcronym":null,"InsFSN":null,"ORCID":null,"PersID":null,"InsID":null},{"AutName":"Guza","Firstname":null,"Initials":"R.T.","Affiliation":null,"Discriminator":null,"CorporateFlag":0,"BEntID":117070,"AutID":27721,"OrderNr":2,"DegrID":null,"EditorFlag":0,"CorrespFlag":0,"IllustratorFlag":0,"ReviserFlag":0,"TranslatorFlag":0,"InsAcronym":null,"InsFSN":null,"ORCID":null,"PersID":null,"InsID":null}],"mapdetails":null,"datasets":null,"monographs":null,"monparts":null,"serparts":null,"BEntOpen":null,"BEntPrivate":null,"availability":[{"BInstID":135752,"LibID":2706,"BRefID":123040,"EmbargoDate":null,"FullEmbargoDate":null,"PhysMedID":0,"hasOCRd":null,"ShelfLocCode":"135752","RFID":null,"PaidValue":null,"Medium":"Paper","Description":null,"Acronym":"WL","Library":"Waterbouwkundig Laboratorium","DutchTerm":null,"URL":null,"ClassifID":113,"Classification":"Overdrukjes","ReqLink":1,"ClassifTypID":null,"URLLocation":null,"SubDir":null,"InternalReq":null,"LoggedInReq":null,"Disclaimer":null,"DutchDisclaimer":null,"FileFormat":null,"FileDescr":null,"InsPub":1,"InsID":116,"FileFormID":null,"LendableFlag":null,"PublicFlag":1,"orderLib":"Waterbouwkundig Laboratorium","Notes":null,"AccConID":null,"AccessConstraint":null,"LicURL":null}],"litstyles":null,"thespers":null,"arch2discl":null,"SERpubls":[{"PublName":"American Geophysical Union","City":"Richmond"}],"MONpubls":null,"pictures":[],"thestermsPath":null,"thestermsASFA":null,"taxtermsASFA":null,"geotermsASFA":null,"collections":[{"Collection":"Waterbouwkundig Laboratorium","ShortName":"WL"}],"conf":null,"proj":null,"Physdatasets":null,"spcols":{"130":{"SpName":"Waterbouwkundig Laboratorium","SpColID":130,"ParSpColID":null,"TopParID":null,"ShortName":"WL","URLLocation":null,"LibID":2706,"OpenRepoFlag":null,"SpTypID":1,"TopParIDNotWebsite":null,"SpColPath":"WL"}},"doi":null,"publs":null,"serparttypes":null,"monauthors":null,"MParts":null,"SParts":null,"hLibs":null,"langs":[{"BEntID":117070,"AbstractFlag":-1,"LangID":15,"LangCode":"en","Lang":"English","DutchTerm":"Engels","LangCodeExtended":"eng"},{"BEntID":117070,"AbstractFlag":0,"LangID":15,"LangCode":"en","Lang":"English","DutchTerm":"Engels","LangCodeExtended":"eng"}],"urls":[{"URL":"https://dx.doi.org/10.1029/JC088iC10p05925","externalID":"10.1029/JC088iC10p05925","URLTypeCode":"DOI","URLID":99862,"URLTypID":13,"URLType":"DOI","URLPrefix":"http://dx.doi.org/"}],"thesterms":null,"taxterms":null,"geoterms":null,"othterms":null,"asfacodes":null,"asfa2codes":null,"thestermsFRIS":null,"taxtermsFRIS":null,"geotermsFRIS":null,"othtermsFRIS":null,"resmessage":"","complete":1,"sessions":{"newSesName":"Cerpentier, Steven, S.","newSesDate":{"date":"2008-06-16 09:17:50.460000","timezone_type":3,"timezone":"Europe/Brussels"},"updSesName":"Cerpentier, Steven, S.","updSesDate":{"date":"2022-02-15 08:55:42.890000","timezone_type":3,"timezone":"Europe/Brussels"}}}