{"refrec":{"BRefID":139526,"RR":"<b>Battjes, J.A.; Groenendijk, H.W.</b> (2000). Wave height distributions on shallow foreshores. <i>Coast. Eng. 40(3)</i>: 161-182. <a href=\"https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(00)00007-7\" target=\"_blank\">https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(00)00007-7</a>","BEntID":133085,"PublicFlag":1,"CheckedFlag":0,"wosflag":1,"vabbflag":1,"RefStringPartII":". <i>Coast. Eng. 40(3)</i>: 161-182. <a href=\"https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(00)00007-7\" target=\"_blank\">https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(00)00007-7</a>","DocTypID":8,"DocType":"Journal article","MarineFlag":1,"FreshFlag":0,"BrackishFlag":0,"TerrestrialFlag":0,"Authorstring":"Battjes, J.A.; Groenendijk, H.W.","OrigTitleTranslFlag":0,"Authorstringtrunc":"Battjes, J.A.; Groenendijk, H.W.","Englishabstract":"Wave height distributions on shallow foreshores deviate from those in deep water due to the effects of the restricted depth-to-height ratio and of wave breaking. Laboratory data of wave heights on shallow foreshores of different slopes have been analysed to determine these effects and to derive generalised empirical parameterisations. A model distribution is proposed consisting of a Rayleigh distribution, or a Weibull distribution with exponent equal to 2, for the lower heights and a Weibull with a higher exponent for the higher wave heights. 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