Wave modelling in the PROMISE project
In: Coastal Engineering: An International Journal for Coastal, Harbour and Offshore Engineers. Elsevier: Amsterdam; Lausanne; New York; Oxford; Shannon; Tokyo. ISSN 0378-3839; e-ISSN 1872-7379, more |  |
| Keyword | | | Author keywords | Wave modelling; Shallow water; Suspended particulate matter (SPM); Data sets |
| Authors | | Top | - Monbaliu, J., more
- Hargreaves, J.C.
- Carretero, J.-C.
| - Gerritsen, H., more
- Flather, R.
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| Abstract | The primary objective of the EC-MAST III project PROMISE (Pre-Operational Modelling In the Seas of Europe) is to develop a framework to optimize the application of existing pre-operational dynamical models of the North Sea in order to quantify the rates and scales of the exchange of sediments between the coast and the near-shore zone. This framework should also be applicable to other coastal areas and for broader management applications. One of the components of this framework is the development and the dissemination of a spectra! wave model capable of dealing with shallow water conditions and with the interaction between tide and waves. At the beginning of the project, it was opted to improve the capabilities of the WAM-Cycle 4 model, a model which is considered state of the art at least for deep and intermediate water depths. Three milestones were set: waves on shelf scale, waves on coastal scale and waves interacting with tides on coastal scale. Waves on shelf scale have been studied through an intercomparison exercise between different implementations at the different participating institutes. For wave modelling in coastal regions where usually shallow water conditions prevail and high spatial resolution is needed, considerable enhancements to the WAM-Cycle 4 model have been made so that the model has become practically applicable. Waves interacting with tide forms the last part. This part of the study is still in progress and will be completed by the end of the 3-year PROMISE project. The wave influence on suspended sediment transport on a regional scale is discussed, notably the approximation of wave effects in the process description. The resuspension and deposition of sediments is represented by a pragmatic and efficient approach to include wave effects through the characteristic influences of wind variations, shielding effects and wave attenuation. Data are essential for wave modelling verification as for any other modelling verification. Both the use of data from the far field and the near field are discussed. An overview is given of the data sets that will be disseminated through the PROMISE project. These sets include data available from mainly national research campaigns supplemented by data from remote sensing and model data. These data sets are expected to provide useful information for the research community to test their models. |
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