Skip to main content

IMIS

A new integrated search interface will become available in the next phase of marineinfo.org.
For the time being, please use IMIS to search available data

 

[ report an error in this record ]basket (0): add | show Print this page

Observations of swash under highly dissipative conditions
Ruessink, B.G.; Kleinhans, M.G.; van den Beukel, P.G.L. (1998). Observations of swash under highly dissipative conditions. J. Geophys. Res. 103(C2): 3111-3118. https://dx.doi.org/10.1029/97jc02791
In: Journal of Geophysical Research. American Geophysical Union: Richmond. ISSN 0148-0227; e-ISSN 2156-2202, more
Peer reviewed article  

Available in  Authors 

Keyword
    Marine/Coastal

Authors  Top 
  • Ruessink, B.G.
  • Kleinhans, M.G., more
  • van den Beukel, P.G.L.

Abstract
    Video measurements of swash were made at the low-sloping beach of the multiple bar system at Terschelling, Netherlands. The majority of the measurements were conducted under highly dissipative conditions with Iribarren numbers ξ0 (the ratio of beach slope to the square root of offshore wave steepness) less than 0.2. Infragravity (0.004–0.05 Hz) waves dominated the swash with an average ratio of infragravity and total swash height Rig/R of 0.85. Using linear regression we investigated the dependence of swash parameters on environmental conditions such as short-wave height, period, and local beach slope. On average, Rig was about 30% of the offshore wave height H0; the slope in the linear H0 dependence of Rig amounted to only 0.18, considerably smaller than that observed on steeper beaches. The data set shows evidence for saturation of the higher infragravity frequencies for ξ0 less than, roughly, 0.27. In our opinion, this saturation caused the constant of proportionality in the linear relationship between Rig/H0 and ξ0 to be significantly larger than that observed under higher Iribarren number regimes. The saturated tails of the swash spectra had an approximate f−3 roll-off (where f is frequency), whereas, in general, the nonsaturated parts were white. This lack of significant peaks casts doubt on the causality between infragravity waves and nearshore bars.

All data in the Integrated Marine Information System (IMIS) is subject to the VLIZ privacy policy Top | Authors